Grape Explorations: Riesling
A Journey Through the World of this Noble Grape
By Dathan Kazsuk
Riesling originated in the scenic vineyards of the Rhine Valley in Germany. The grape’s history can be traced back to the 15th century in the region, making it one of the oldest and most esteemed grape varieties in the world. The cool climate and
slate-rich soils of the Rhine Valley provide the perfect conditions for Riesling to thrive, allowing it to develop its signature aromatic profile and balanced acidity that wine enthusiasts have come to adore. Over time, Riesling has spread to various wine regions around the globe, but its roots remain firmly planted in the scenic landscapes of Germany’s wine country.
The German riesling offers a diverse range of styles that cater to varying tastes and preferences. The different types of German Riesling are primarily categorized based on their sweetness levels. The ripeness of the grapes determines the sweetness at the time of harvest and the winemaking process. Here are the main types of German Riesling:
Trocken (Dry): Trocken Riesling is a dry style of wine with minimal residual sugar. These wines showcase the natural acidity of the Riesling grape and are often characterized by citrus, green apple, and mineral notes.
Halbtrocken (Off-Dry): Halbtrocken Riesling, also known as off-dry or feinherb, has a touch of residual sugar, offering a hint of sweetness while retaining a crisp, refreshing character.
Kabinett: Kabinett Rieslings are made from grapes picked at an early stage of ripeness, resulting in a light and delicate style. They can range from dry to off-dry, with vibrant fruit flavors and lively acidity.
Spätlese: Spätlese means “late harvest,” and these wines are made from grapes harvested later in the season when they have achieved a higher level of ripeness. Spätlese Rieslings are typically off-dry to sweet.
Auslese: Auslese wines are made from individually selected, overripe grapes with a higher sugar concentration. As a result, these wines tend to be sweet and luscious, offering complex flavors of tropical fruits.
Beerenauslese and Eiswein: These are dessert-style Rieslings made from grapes affected by noble rot (Botrytis Cinerea) or harvested after freezing on the vine, respectively.
Trockenbeerenauslese: This is the rarest and sweetest style of German Riesling. TBA wines are made from individually hand-picked shriveled grapes affected by noble rot. Each type of German riesling offers a unique and delightful experience, making it a beloved choice among wine enthusiasts seeking diversity in taste and complexity.
Regarding rieslings, most people think of Germany as the top producer. However, it’s important to note that many wineries in the United States produce some truly exceptional Riesling wines. “I continue to find excellent expressions of Riesling in the U.S.,” says Steve Sommerville, owner of Hillsborough’s Ocean South Imports. “The varietal thrives in certain parts of Washington State and New York. Even in Napa Valley, Smith Madrone’s dry Riesling never ceases to amaze me, vintage after vintage. Red Tail Ridge I consider to be an exceptional producer of Riesling out of the Finger Lakes—the owner, Nancy Irelan, has impressed me with Rieslings made in various styles.
Washington has many great producers, including Two Mountain on Rattlesnake Hill. I am also quite fond of Phelps Creek in Oregon.”
Riesling’s versatility and wide range of sweetness levels make it an excellent wine for pairing with various dishes.
But for many wine drinkers out there, just like North Carolina has the stigma of producing only “sweet” wines, the majestic Riesling also gets a lot of bad rap for being a wine “too sweet for my taste.” Sommerville loves it when he can showcase his portfolio of German wine and show them that not all Rieslings are sweet.
“I find it quite rewarding to help convert some of those naysayers into Riesling fanatics by getting some fine, drier styles in their glass. More dry Riesling lovers need to let their passion shine and sell people on other styles of riesling. Most Sommeliers and those working in the industry seem to gravitate towards rieslings, but for whatever reason, many give up on trying to sell them. This is a shame.”
RIESLING IN NORTH CAROLINA
North Carolina’s harsh summer climate, characterized by hot and humid conditions, is not ideal for growing traditional riesling vines. Riesling grapes typically thrive in cooler temperatures with a longer growing season, which allows them to develop their signature acidity and aromatic profile.
To produce riesling wines in North Carolina, some wineries have employed specific strategies to overcome the challenges posed by the climate.
High-Elevation Vineyards: At higher altitudes, temperatures can be more moderate, creating a more suitable environment for growing Riesling grapes. These vineyards might be located in elevated areas within regions such as Western Carolina, which can offer a more favorable microclimate for riesling cultivation.
Sourcing Grapes from Cooler Regions: Instead of growing Riesling locally, some wineries may choose to source Riesling grapes from other regions in the state with suitable climates for this grape variety.
Experimental Plantings: Some winemakers in North Carolina may conduct experimental plantings of Riesling to determine if specific microclimates or vineyard management techniques can yield successful results despite the challenging climate. And with the growth of N.C. wine recently, this is being achieved.
EVALUATING THE PRICE TAG
Did you know that some of the most expensive white wines in the world are German Rieslings? And that’s deservedly so, as according to Sommerville, some of the rarest Rieslings are grown from the best plots and delivered to the hands of brilliant winegrowers and winemakers whose artistry is top-tier. “It’s no different than in other wine regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja or Napa,” he says.
But not all Rieslings are expensive, as many German rieslings can be found for under $25. Sommerville says if you are feeling the urge to seek out a great dry Riesling, be sure to hit up a reputable wine shop and ask for advice. “Most reputable, independent wine shop staff taste the wine before bringing it in and can recommend some great Rieslings.”
Use that advice the next time you’re at your favorite restaurant or wine bar. But remember, with excellent German Riesling, you can start to travel down an immersive rabbit hole when looking for some rarer, top-of-the-line Grosses Gewächs Riesling wines.