By Jennifer Primrose
Black Star Farms Vineyard & Winery in Suttons Bay epitomizes winemaking excellence and hospitality. Our journey through the region’s wineries began here, where we had the pleasure of meeting Kimberly Zacharias, a cornerstone of Black Star Farms for the past 17 years. With her extensive experience and deep-rooted passion for the winery, Zacharias has worn many hats—from coordinating promotions and managing off-site events to serving as the winery ambassador and hosting estate tours.
She enthusiastically told us that Black Star Farms would be featured in its first AMAWaterways wine cruise: “We’re going to be the first Michigan winery featured on an AMAWaterways wine cruise to Europe. It’s going from Basel, Switzerland, to Amsterdam through the Rhine and Moselle rivers, and I get to go and represent the winery.”
Her journey with Black Star began as a member of the Suttons Bay tasting room staff, and her dedication has since become a vital part of Black Star’s story. As Zacharias graciously guided us through the property, her enthusiasm for Black Star Farms and Michigan's rich wine history was palpable.
We explored the luxurious ten-room inn, discovered the estate’s many offerings, and learned about the grape varietals and wine styles produced at the winery. Amid this, Zacharias led us through a wine tasting, her knowledge illuminating each pour and flavor profile. The experience was a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and vibrant community that Black Star Farms embodies, making it a must-visit destination for both wine enthusiasts and casual visitors.
History of Black Star Farms
Beginning as a barn in 1897, Black Star Farms has evolved into a destination for wine, food, and nature lovers, fostering a bond among like-minded guests. The journey began when the original owners transformed a farmhouse into an equestrian facility and bed & breakfast. The original owners moved out of the property in the late 1980s, marking a significant transition into this modern-day winery estate.
Zacharias takes a step back to when it started, explaining, “In 1969, the first wine grapes were planted on this peninsula, but those were French hybrid grapes.” However, in 1974, Ed O’Keefe at Chateau Grand Traverse planted the first Riesling grapes, which became Michigan’s signature grape, marking the real beginning of the region’s wine industry. At that time, only a few wineries existed, including Leelanau Cellars and Mawby Vineyards. And it was Mawby, which initially started with still wines before focusing on sparkling wines.
One of O’Keefe’s first vineyards was located on Black Star’s original property in Suttons Bay on the Leelanau Peninsula, which was officially founded in 1998. Donald Coe and Kerm Campbell were the original owners of Black Star. Today, the sole proprietors are Kerm and Sallie Campbell, following Coe’s retirement in 2015.
While living in Europe in the 1970s, the Campbells developed a taste for fine wine. Twenty years later, they relocated to northern Michigan and grew their first grapes on the Old Mission Peninsula. In 1998, Kerm Campbell and Donald Coe became owners of Sport Valley Farm, a 120-acre Kentucky-style equestrian estate. They soon recognized the potential of this land as a winery with the surrounding charm of northern Michigan’s lakeshore.
They chose the name Black Star Farms, inspired by the black star embossed in the marble foyer of the estate house, now the Inn at Black Star Farms. To realize their dream of owning a top-tier winery, they enlisted the expertise of winemaker Lee Lutes, making him a part owner in 1998. Zacharias reflects, “Winemakers tend to move around a lot like chefs. They have their craft, and then they get offered more money at a bigger winery. Well, Kerm, the owner, knew that, so he gave him stock in the winery. So now he’s part owner.” This commitment to quality and continuity is a testament to the winery’s dedication to excellence.
In 2007, they opened another winery and tasting room on the Old Mission Peninsula, which had previously been part of Underwood Farms. This new location houses a state-of-the-art wine processing and distilling facility and a tasting room.
Over the years, Black Star Farms has flourished into a renowned destination in northern Michigan Wine Country. The estate, nuzzled on a 160-acre property, today boasts a luxury inn, two wine processing facilities with adjoining tasting rooms, a distillery, a farm-to-table café, an equestrian facility and hiking trails. The wines have garnered state, national and international acclaim for their exceptional quality, a testament to the winery’s growth and success.
The Inn at Black Star Farms
The Inn at Black Star Farms, a unique gem modeled after a Kentucky estate, stands out with its exclusive equestrian-inspired design. Nestled among local wineries, beaches, and winter sports destinations, the inn provides a tranquil escape for guests. Under the management of David Avis, who brings 30 years of experience in the service and hospitality industry, the inn offers exceptional customer service, ensuring every stay is memorable. In 2020, USA Today’s 10 Best Readers’ Choice Awards voted it the best wine country hotel.
The Inn at Black Star Farms is dedicated to ensuring a memorable stay for each guest, offering a range of personalized touches and luxurious amenities. Each guest is welcomed with a bottle of wine in their room, complete with a custom label featuring their name. Mornings start with a delicious, freshly prepared breakfast, while evenings bring the chance to socialize in the Night Hospitality Lounge, where guests can enjoy wine, small bites, and friendly conversation.
During their stay, guests enjoy complimentary wine tastings and exclusive discounts on all purchases. For those who enjoy the outdoors, the estate features three miles of on-site trails and outdoor seating, including inviting rocking chairs on the front patio, perfect for taking in the stunning surroundings.
The inn features ten beautifully appointed rooms, each with a warm and inviting atmosphere. Room options include urban-contemporary styles, scenic views, two-room suites, a honeymoon suite, apartment suites and accessible rooms catering to a variety of guest preferences. Recently renovated and updated, these rooms provide a fresh and comfortable experience. Whether you’re seeking a romantic weekend or a peaceful retreat, The Inn at Black Star Farms offers the perfect blend of luxury and coziness.
Weddings & Events
Black Star Farms offers a beautiful setting for weddings and events, catering to various preferences and styles. The scenic hilltop vineyard provides a stunning backdrop for outdoor ceremonies right among the vines, making it a popular choice for couples seeking a natural and romantic atmosphere.
For those desiring an indoor venue, the estate features several charming spaces, such as the Arcturos room, perfect for small to medium-sized events and the Aquarius room, the largest and most sought-after venue for weddings. The historic Pegasus Barn, built in 1897 and renovated in 2013, offers a rustic yet elegant setting with its original barn wood walls and solid wood floors. The covered patio behind the inn, with its landscaped courtyard and serene vineyard views and the stone patio, with its raised platform altar and charming treehouse, provide intimate and unique outdoor weddings and event options. The barn courtyard, overlooking the farm and horse paddocks adds to the scenic location. Black Star Farms also hosts private wine dinners, parties, cocktail receptions and wine and dinner receptions, ensuring a memorable experience for all guests.
Bistro Polaris
Bistro Polaris is the on-site restaurant at Black Star Farms, offering both indoor seating and an outdoor patio. It was initially part of the equestrian facility and was renovated in 2007 to become a farmer’s market. Adding a wood-fired oven turned it into a popular dining spot. In 2023, the restaurant was rebranded as Bistro Polaris and welcomed a new chef, John Korycki, known for his Italian and Mediterranean-influenced menu. Highlighting Neapolitan-style pizza, the restaurant is also available as a venue for smaller parties, rehearsal dinners and intimate gatherings.
The Winemaker
Lee Lutes, the winemaker at Black Star Farms since its inception in 1998, brings a unique journey to the northern Michigan wine industry. Unlike traditional winemakers, his path began with a business degree from Michigan State University and a career in fine dining in New York City. As Zacharias notes, “He has kind of an interesting story because he really didn’t go to school for winemaking. He got a degree in business and finance and graduated from Michigan State University in 1987. He went to New York City and started working in fine dining, and that’s where he got the wine bug. He started experimenting with making wine in his apartment in New York City and discovered he had a passion for it.”
This newfound passion propelled Lutes to explore winemaking in Italy’s Piedmont region, where he served as an assistant winemaker at Abbazia di Valle Chiara. Returning to northern Michigan, Lutes honed his skills at Peninsula Cellars before joining Black Star Farms. His innovative spirit and comprehensive understanding of wine production have been instrumental in shaping Black Star Farms’ acclaimed portfolio. Today, he oversees all winemaking operations across Black Star Farms’ processing facilities in the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas. His innovative approach extends to directing the distillation program and producing European-style fruit brandies and dessert wines that enhance Black Star Farms’ portfolio in the market.
Wine Production
Black Star Farms excels in wine production amidst northern Michigan’s favorable “lake effect” climate, ideal for cultivating classic vinifera grape varieties like Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. This renowned winery also produces a diverse array of varietals, including Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Marquette, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Riesling, Gewürztraminer and more.
Benefiting from its own vineyards and local grower partnerships on Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas, Black Star Farms consistently produces between 35,000 and 45,000 cases annually.
While the region’s lake effect snow acts as a crucial insulator, protecting rootstock during harsh winters, challenges arise in years with minimal snowfall, which reduces insulation effectiveness. White wines are meticulously crafted at the Old Mission Peninsula site, while all red wines benefit from focused production at their Suttons Bay location.
Challenges
Like many wineries, Black Star Farms has faced challenges over the years. One significant challenge has been Mother Nature’s unpredictability, notably during the polar vortex winters of 2014 and 2015. These extreme weather events brought prolonged subzero temperatures, which severely impacted grapevines and led to substantial crop losses.
They sometimes source from southwest Michigan, preferably leveraging its more temperate climate to mitigate northern Michigan’s frost risks while staying true as a Michigan winery utilizing only Michigan grapes.
Like other boutique-style wineries, Michigan wine producers also contend with fierce competition from large California wineries that can undercut prices. Despite this competition, there is a growing recognition of the importance of local wines, especially in tourist areas like the Traverse City region.
Black Star Farms is an outstanding presence in Michigan’s wine industry. It is a wine-lover’s destination worth exploring, from its humble beginnings in a transformed farmhouse to the expansive estate it is today. The estate’s impact extends beyond its award-winning wines to encompass an inn, a distillery producing fruit-based brandies and a renowned farm-to-table bistro.
The future holds promise for further accolades and expansion, driven by a dedication to crafting exceptional wines and creating memorable experiences. Our journey through Black Star Farms has left a lasting impression, inspiring us to revisit and indulge in their exceptional wines year-round, a testament to their enduring legacy in Michigan’s wine country.