6 Volcanic Wines You'll Want to Try
Exploring the Depth and Distinction of Six Exceptional Volcanic Wines
By Dathan Kazsuk
There’s something fascinating about tasting wine with a side of geology, especially when the wines in question come from some of the most explosive places on Earth—literally. Our American Wine Society chapter recently gathered for a deep dive into six volcanic wines, exploring how the fiery history beneath the vines shaped what ended up in our glasses. From the rugged slopes of Campania, Italy, to the cool, misty Willamette Valley in Oregon, we discovered just how much a little lava and ash can do for a grape.
AWS member Tommy Goff took the reins, leading the packed room inside Total Wine's "Educational Class Room" through a lineup of six wines, dropping knowledge like volcanic rock.
So, what makes volcanic wines unique? It’s all in the soil. Rich in minerals and with excellent drainage, volcanic soil forces the vines to work harder, resulting in grapes with more concentrated flavors and wines that often show remarkable complexity and depth.
And here’s a fun fact to chew on with your next sip: Mount Etna in Sicily is the world’s oldest active volcano, which has been erupting for around 500,000 years. Not only does it boast an impressive lifespan, but it also produces some of the most sought-after volcanic wines in the world. If that doesn’t make you want to raise a glass to Mother Earth’s inner fire, I don’t know what will.
We kicked off our "ring of fire" adventure with a bang—starting in Santorini, Greece, with GWC’s Assyrtiko. This white wine, glowing golden yellow in the glass, brought vibrant notes of citrus and apple that immediately had the room buzzing. Its crisp minerality and refreshing acidity—classic hallmarks of Santorini’s volcanic soils—added an extra layer of complexity. It didn’t take long for the crowd to agree unanimously: this wine practically begged to be paired with seafood. Whether it’s fresh oysters, grilled octopus or a light ceviche, Assyrtiko proved it’s a wine that doesn’t just play well with food—it elevates the whole experience.
Next, we ventured to Campania, Italy, with Donnachiara’s Falanghina—a wine that’s clearly been turning heads, including James Suckling, who awarded it an impressive 90 points. This full-bodied white intrigued us with its delicate notes of grapefruit pulp, salted lemon rind and a whisper of salinity on the finish. The balance of boldness and freshness made it a standout, and at just $17.99, it was an undeniable steal.
Then came the Planeta Etna Rosso DOC, a wine that surprised us with its layered complexity. Imagine a swirl of vanilla, cherry and wild strawberries mingling with hints of oriental spices and black pepper—it was as intriguing as it sounds. Made from 100 percent Nerello Mascalese, this savory red had a character reminiscent of Pinot Noir. Of course, not everyone agreed with the comparison, but everyone’s entitled to their wrong opinions, right?
Speaking of Pinot Noir, our next stop brought us stateside to Oregon’s Willamette Valley with J. Christopher Basalte’s Pinot Noir. This one charmed us with its nose of rich red fruit and a subtle earthiness, while the palate delivered cherry, chocolate and just the right touch of oak. The balance was impeccable, with a refreshing acidity that made it a true crowd-pleaser.
Saving the best red wine for last, we wrapped up the reds with the showstopper of the afternoon: Carmen Gran Reserva Carignan from Maule Valley, Chile. This wine had it all—aromas of ripe dark berries, a hint of pencil shavings, and just enough earthiness to make it stand out from the pack. It was bold and balanced. This Carignan was made for a hearty winter feast. Picture it alongside a fatty beef dish, perfectly complemented by roasted root vegetables—pure culinary magic. We didn’t leave without snagging a bottle, and at just $17.99, it felt like we’d struck gold.
We closed out our volcanic journey with a bang—or should we say a sip—of Sandeman’s Madeira from Portugal. At 19 percent ABV and unmistakably sweet, it wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea (or glass of wine, in this case). But hey, their loss was the rest of the room’s gain!
Crafted from 100 percent Tinta Negra Mole, this medium-dark amber beauty dazzled with its nutty complexity and a finish that lingered in all the right ways. Rich, pronounced and wonderfully agreeable. For those who passed, let’s say they truly missed out on something exceptional—more for the rest of us to savor.
By the end of the tasting, we hoped attendees walked away with a deeper appreciation for volcanic wines—and I know I certainly did. But if there’s one minor gripe, it’s that Total Wine couldn’t track down some great volcanic wines from California’s northern regions, like Shannon Ridge or Brasfield wineries. Thankfully, we’ve got a few bottles stashed away in our wine cellar, so we’ll be sure to crack them open soon and reminisce about this unforgettable day.